Braun Nizo 801 Manual

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Here you'll find most of them for download, in English language as well as multilingual. The manuals for very few specific cameras were not available anymore, but the manuals from earlier, later or similar models can be used instead. Just very few minor details will differ (e.g. smaller lens, missing or an additional feature etc.) The operating instructions remain always the same. Main motor does not work, only zoom motor and solenoid. Have you tried to run a power supply directly to the motor alone and test that. Usually the issue has to do with power leaving the variable speed control module. So, first off I would recommend using a voltage meter and testing the current flow to and from that module. If nothing comes out, then that's the issue. Usually it's mild surface corrosion causing electrical resistance. Some spray contract cleaner for electronics might cure that. Sometimes when the speed control fails, the camera will often default to the top run speed of 54fps. IF it truly is the motor, you can use one from most any similar model, since they differ mostly by the lens setup.so finding another one which has other damage but the motor runs. Anyhow, check all that out first, you might be fortunate and still have a running camera. If the speed control module is bad, another can be used. As for new parts, there might be some available from Germany, but even so those are very old now as well. It's the capacitor that deteriorates, same as on speed control units for Super 8 projectors. If you know how to test those, do so, and get a replacment from an electronics parts house online. Here's the link: I did LM317 for the meter and when assembled grip and connected 6x1,5V high current passed through and I could smell bad odour. Now only solenoid works. Do you know which wires for main motor? Paste as plain text instead Display as a link instead Clear editor Upload or insert images from URL. Cosmetic condition: LN-. Notes: Accessories: as shown on pictures. http://gemmacapitalgroup.com/foto/brinkmann-electric-water-smoker-manual.xml

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About Are you ready for this Nizo. The Nizo universal range is one of the best equipped Super 8 mm film cameras in the world. To get the best out of it you don't need a great experience. You just need creativity. Under your hand and eye lie all the features like Schneider Variogon, automatic exposure through the lens, split image focusing, time lapse from approx six frames a second to one frame a minute, instant slow motion (with exposure automatically corrected), back light correction and variable shutter for difficult light. This all is incorporated in the classic elegant body made up from pure aluminum. And remember, that's just the start. Manual Disclaimer: Full copyright belongs to the original manufacturer. No manual is sold through this site. Samples: Download: Camera instructions. Choose your shop: Look specifically for the models with the automatic B-function (480-801), with this function the camera exposes one frame as long as is necessary before going to the next frame. I made a stop-motion movie with a Nizo 481 from the moon going down during the night. Besides you can fully open the the shutter. Nizo S800 Take a look here for specs and more of the popular Nizo S800. Nizo features I had a few and they always broke down. Jim Morrison with probably a Nizo S560. Updated: 22 April 2020 See also: Nizo Nizo s800 Share them here. I recently got a Nizo Spezial 148 but haven't used it yet. I saw on your Nizo page you said the 148 wouldn't work with Ektachrome. Will it work with Vision 3 or any other stocks currently made. Thanks! Reply I found a few videos, for example this one. There might be more footage, so you might want to search a bit on YouTube. Reply See the first comment with replies in this video for more details: Nizo 156 and 100D (the 156 is technically the same as your 148). Reply I couldn't find much information on the camera besides a youtube video that uses 50D. I assume i'll need to manually set the exposure? http://shosholoza.de/brinkmann-dual-function-charcoal-gas-grill-manual.xml

Reply I can't find any manuals, but it looks similar to the 480, 560, S800 series, although the model is from 1967. It will probably read 200T as 160, so I guess you have to experiment a bit with extra stops and write down what you did and when for future reference. Also, find some YouTube videos of Nizo with 200T and read the descriptions and comments, some have excellent info. I'll get back to you if I come across more info. Reply. When my camera is in the proper focus (confirmed by processed film) and the diopter is set to my eyesight, the split image is off significantly. I can still use the camera, but it would be nice to have the split image adjusted to be correct. Reply I have been looking to buy one of their super 8 cameras but they're out of stock and I can only find them on ebay. Thanks! Reply So all Nizo cameras you see for sale, are at least 35 to 50 years old. Reply The website you're looking at sells 2nd hand Nizo cameras, and is not an official Nizo website. There will be never 'new' Nizo cameras, and they are fixing old cameras:-) Reply. I put put batteries in last week and tested it. All lenses are clear. All button work. No dents or dings. Telephoto is smooth as silk. Also, it comes with a black leatherette Braun carrying case with shoulder strap (where is has been stored for the last decade). My elderly father bought this and he has passed on. It was rarely used, maybe 5-6 film rolls total.Spares Repair. Shows moderate wear. May have slight marks on finish. Glass very clean. Shows moderate wear. May have small dings, pecks and slight finish wear. Glass may have some dust, but no marks. Shows more than average wear. May have dents, dings and a goodly amount of brassing and finish loss. Glass may have marks that should not affect picture quality. No further comments necessary. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. http://superbia.lgbt/flotaganis/1647618379

I'm not sure if this is appropriate but if anyone has had experience with the Nizo 801 or similar model, I have a question for you. Thanks a million everyone. Richard SweetingI need to know the which way opens and closes the aperture and its not in there.I need to know the which way opens and closes the aperture and its not in there. Click to expand. It says that the aperture indicator is visible through the viewfinder. If the aperture control doesn't move the indicator, your camera is probably toast.It says that the aperture indicator is visible through the viewfinder. If the aperture control doesn't move the indicator, your camera is probably toast. Click to expand. Unless someone comes up with a calibration for the unmarked dots of the dial. (I have not got my Nizo at hand, so I can't help.)Click to expand. On my camera, contact was made via a screw which had come loose. I was able to retighten this without too much disassembly, but it was at an awkward angle.Cameras will not expose properly without working meter. This is the case with almost every Super8 camera. These cameras have great ergonomic design, steady film gate and very good lenses.well worth getting repaired. Try DuAll camera in NYC.When I was filming, all of my Canons with manual exposure would let me set the aperture on manual and told me what it was. My Beaulieus too. R8 (bought at a flea market, quickly resold) and R10 (bought, failed acceptance testing, returned) too. I looked at the 801 manual I directed the OP to, it is pretty explicit that on manual the aperture selected is displayed in the finder. If, that is, the camera is working properly. In the Canon 814E, 814 XL-E and 514 XL-E the linkage between the aperture setting knob and the aperture contained a rubber ball. When the ball perishes, there goes the ability to set the aperture manually.Always liked the compact design of the Nizo. Beaulieu also. Smallest S8 camera I have is Mini Bolex S8. http://www.btrcontrols.com/images/braun-mr-5550-m-bc-hc-manual.pdf

No time to check cameras, but for Nizo, while the f stop can be set manually (there is a manual setting on camera ) it seems to me that the meter must be working for it to function properly. I must confess that I have never tried manual with inoperative meter and must try it sometime so you may be correct. The nice thing about Beaulieu Super8 is that film speed is set manually, independent of film cassette key. For Super8 I have always trusted the onboard meter, making slight adjustments manually if necessary. On the other hand, except for a Beaulieu R16, none of my 16 mm cameras have meters.I'm not sure if this is appropriate but if anyone has had experience with the Nizo 801 or similar model, I have a question for you. Thanks a million everyone. Richard Sweeting Click to expand. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. If you have a Photrio account, please log in (and select 'stay logged in') to prevent recurrence of this notice.We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links. To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here. The NIZO models. The NIZO models S-481,They have a built-in intervalometerThey also have aTo check theThe Aperture settingsIn the center of the aperture setting knob is a tinyWhen depressed momentarily, the needle will deflectCamera trigger has to be held in, or use cable release,BEFORE you remove the cartridge.By moving it to the middle positionUseful for smoother fast action, or if you desireBy depressing a small black button at the end of theThis will LOCK the SHUTTER. FULLY OPEN. By doing this.you can make a timed exposure longer than normalThis means you canIt can also be usedTo commenceThe lap dissolve system in mechanically interlockedTape some newsprint or material on the wall for clarity. Measure from the wall to the focal plane on the camera (small film plane symbol;Depending on your eyesight. https://www.enviedecrire.com/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/16284654b24029---bulova-chronograph-manual.pdf

Move small lever downward and cartridge doorThe cartridge willThe metering system is. The site may not work properly if you don't update your browser. If you do not update your browser, we suggest you visit old reddit. Press J to jump to the feed. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts Log in sign up User account menu 3 Nizo 801 Macro vs. Nizo 156 Macro Nizo 156 Macro I realize that the 156 is more compact, but other than that what are the advantages and disadvantages to both. I'm also planning on recording some sound and was wondering if there's much camera noise with these.They are just different. I own both. The 801 is definitely sharper. Literally one of the sharpest S8 cameras ever. A chunk larger and also requires the annoying wein cell air zinc batteries for the light meter that are expensive and die very easily. Plus manual exposure doesn’t even work without them. But still amazing. Has 54fos slow-mo and the 801 Macro is compatible with the UWLIII wide angle adapter. Has time lapse mode and nighttime time lapse mode. Not as good in low light. Here’s a roll I shot. The 156 Macro is also a great little camera. I use it when I’m traveling. It’s more compact. Only requires 4 AA vs 6 AA. Still has 36fps slow mo and a more basic but still good time lapse mode. Has an XL shutter which means it’s better in low light but not quite as sharp due to slower shutter speed. Overall they are awesome little cameras. Here’s a roll of Ektachrome I shot. Neither camera can technically meter 500T but both have manual exposure to handle that. Or on auto, 500T can handle the overexposure. They both meter 50D, 200T, Tri-X and Ektachrome perfectly. They both are NOT silent but are around the mid to low range of loudness of cameras. The 801 is maybe a bit more quiet. Keep in mind 99 Super 8 cameras are not meant for sound sync so sound will not perfectly match up. dispatchplus.com/ckfinder/userfiles/files/canon-eos-60d-pdf-manual.pdf

If you’re looking for the best, go to the 801, but if you want more compact but still capable, go for the 156. Exactly the answer I was looking for. Your footage looks amazing, as does all the content on your page. As far as sound goes, I'm hopeful I can sync for a few short durations. I just had one more quick question. So, manual exposure will not work without t he light meter batteries, correct?? Just want to double check. And if that is the case, do you know why that is. Your footage looks great. We also have the pro. Both fantastic. Have a really cool bulb mode that only advances the film when there is enough light to make an image. All rights reserved Back to top. The ergonomics of this camera are fantastic, and it also has a fast lens, it deals with low light conditions very well. WATCH MOTOR TEST HERE: Motor runs smooth.Clean Film compartment. Solid handle grip. Zero rust anywhere, incredibly clean and well maintained. Old grease replaced with non-petroleum synthetic lube. Shutter release smooth and responsive. Viewfinder adjusts. Lens focusing ring actuates perfectly smooth. Auto zoom works and sounds wonderful. Viewfinder is nice and clean. Works perfectly and it looks awesome too. Please look at the photographs AND VIDEO, they provide the best description.I have had this camera in my shop for about a year and didn't want to list it because I was planing on keeping it for myself, but I just got 3 more so now I can share the joy of using this one.Clean Film compartment. Solid handle grip. Zero rust anywhere, incredibly clean and well maintained. Shutter is smooth and responsive. Diopter adjusts. Lens focusing ring actuates perfectly smooth. Auto zoom works and sounds wonderful. Viewfinder is nice and clean. Works perfectly and it looks awesome too. Please look at the photographs AND VIDEO, they provide the best description. Shipping costs include insurance and signature confirmation with NO EXCEPTIONS. {-Variable.fc_1_url-

We have a large stock of old retro vintage style old film cameras to hire. Old 16mm and 8mm cine cameras are all available for your film production prop hire. CONTACT US TODAY Dv Camera Hire 0207 430 1811 Home About Us Video Cameras DSLRs Crew Hire Accessories Drone Hire Corporate Misc Hire Self Shooting Camera Kit Hire Contact us More. Something went wrong.Get the item you ordered or your money back.User Agreement, Privacy, Cookies and AdChoice Norton Secured - powered by Verisign. Something went wrong. Looks like this page is missing. If you still need help, visit our help pages. All Rights Reserved. User Agreement, Privacy, Cookies and AdChoice Norton Secured - powered by Verisign. You are currently using an outdated browser. To optimise your browsing experience, please update your browser. See photos to get an impression of the item. Packaged securely and shipped with tracking.By clicking on an item on our website, you agree to our use of cookies. Learn more about our cookies and your options. Something went wrong. View cart for details. All Rights Reserved. User Agreement, Privacy, Cookies and AdChoice Norton Secured - powered by Verisign. She had been suffering from acute cervical cancer. Fred will continue to run the business to the best of his ability. The web site is slowly getting under control againThe list is inFully automatic exposure control,Fully automatic exposure control,Reflex viewfinder with splitSound synchronisation impulseSound synchronisation impulseReflex viewfinderReflex viewfinderReflex viewfinderVariable shutter, autoSound synchronisation impulseReflex viewfinderVariable shutter, autoSound synchronisation impulseReflex viewfinderVariable shutter, autoSound synchronisation impulseFully automatic exposure control with Sound synchronisation impulse socket for Fully automatic exposure control with Sound synchronisation impulse socket for. https://www.revistadefiesta.com/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/162846572353cb---bulova-accutron-gemini-men-s-manual-watch.pdf

The product portfolio included high-fidelity audio and record players, electric shavers, mixers, pocket calculators, slide projectors, and Super 8 film cameras. In 1962 Nizo was facing bankruptcy, but luckily, Braun saved Nizo by acquiring the company. In 1965, the Nizo S 8 was presented, designed by Robert Oberheim. Its successor, the 1968 Nizo S 80 was acquired for the collection of the Museum of Modern Art in New York. For almost two decades, the design of the various cameras basically stayed the same: the clean geometric shape consisted of the main housing made of matte-polished anodized aluminum, the lens, and a black plastic handgrip. The Nizo S 800 of the early 1970s was the first Nizo that was also available in black. In 1980, Nizo is sold to the competitor Bauer, and in 1982, the factory was closed. The camera is still fully functional and will be used by VernissageTV for the coverage of selected events. Create one here. Alongside the Everything pictured is included (including the case) The manual is for a nizo professional, not an 801, but it covers all the standard features on the camera. Filming with the Nizo professional. Drive system. Drive battery and safety box. Braun NC accumulator box: an alternative accessory. Manual zoom control. Filming with the Nizo professional. Drive system. Drive battery and safety box. Braun NC accumulator box: an alternative accessory. The reference numbers of the controls (shown in Main Pictures) are repeated below with a brief definition of each control, followed by advice on how to start No manual is sold through this site. Samples: Download: Operating instructions. See more of Braun Nizo Professional. Braun Nizo Professional. Back. www.digitekprinting.com/bbaexchange/webroot/admin_upload/files/canon-eos-60d-manual.pdf

Shopping 22 Dec 2015 Snap by Hugh Brownstone: Braun Nizo S56 next to Leica IIIa: two icons ability to focus manually (I had to rely on a split image rangefinder through stabilization can be (I used plain vanilla stabilization in Final Cut Pro X) Creators are allowed to post content they produce to the platform, so long as they comply with our policies. United Kingdom. Company number 10637289. As far as I can tell, the main differences in models are akin to current cameras — if you get a premium model you get more camera speed (ASA) compatibility, more frame rate and shutter speed options, a better light meter, and a better lens. It seems that only the most spenny Super 8 cameras give the option of an interchangeable lens. TOP PICKS FOR CANON: 814 XL-S, 1014 XL-S TOP PICKS FOR BRAUN NIZO: 801, S80 After some deep diving on eBay, I concluded that the Braun Nizo 801 was a cost-effective purchase. There seemed to be more of them in a very good condition, and the price was very reasonable. There almost seems to be a cottage industry built on repairing and reselling them. We paid around ?250 for ours, and oh boy, she is MINT. As with most technical purchases, you get what you pay for, and you really don’t want to cheap out on something like this. Top tip: make sure whoever you’re buying it from has a good seller rating, and that they’ve mentioned testing it in the description. It just gives you a bit more security when it comes to knowing what to expect from the item, and having a leg to stand on if it shows up in several pieces. The Braun Nizo 801 If you do decide to go down the Nizo route, here’s the low down. It runs on 6 x AA batteries, as well as 2 x 1.35V Weincell batteries for the light meter. It was crafted by Germans, so you know it’s solid. Wrapped in perfectly milled aluminium, it has a comforting weight to it. When not in use, it has an articulating handle which tucks up behind itself, ensuring the batteries don’t get drained. The view-finder has an adjustable diopter so that you can adjust the image to your vision. All of the buttons are obvious, intuitive and simple to operate. The lens has electronic operation for both its zoom and aperture functions, with manual options available, albeit still electronically controlled for the aperture. The light meter in the camera is directly linked to the aperture dial, and can automatically adjust to your environment by automatically detecting your film’s ASA speed. It also has a geared reel counter, letting you know (approximately) how much film is left on your 50ft roll. You have the choice of three frame rates: 18 (for that classic film vibe), 24 (for that new-wave cine vibe) and 54 (for 3x slowdown on an 18fps timeline). There’s also the option for variable shutter speeds, mainly for shooting in low-light conditions. The camera also has some peculiar settings, such as a “dissolve” and “fade to black” feature, which was maybe fun or useful before NLEs came along, but in 2020, it feels a bit novel. Step 2 — Choosing your film stock Unlike 16mm or any other larger film formats, Super 8 is pretty damn easy to work with. No need to buy a tent or worry about having good enough proprioception to load in the dark. The film comes in a little cartridge that you simply plonk into the back or side of your camera and off you go. If you’ve ever shot 35mm film stills, buying motion film stock won’t be a new experience for you, so you might want to skip the next section if you’re one of the lucky ones. The best way to get to know which stocks do what, and which ones you like, is to either test them for yourself or watch clips online. That’s a whole new adventure for you to embark on. I’m trying to keep this short, so I’ve chosen to omit it. If you want to know, ask. Otherwise, stick to negative. Each film has an ASA rating, which in layman's terms determines how sensitive the film is to light. If you’re used to digital cameras, ASA is equivalent to ISO. The thing with film is that you can’t turn the gain up in-camera. This introduces grain, which, depending on your desired outcome, could be a blessing or a disaster. Generally speaking, if you’re shooting indoors, or in less well-lit conditions, opt for a film stock with an ASA of above 250. The caveat to shooting on a higher-speed stock is that the granulation of the grain itself is larger. To draw a comparison to digital sensors: bigger pixels are more light-sensitive than small pixels. If you have bigger pixels, you get better low-light, but also lower resolution (hence the low-light power of the a7S). The same applies to film. If your exposure size is Super 8 and you use a lower ASA film, it’ll have smaller, more densely packed silver halides, which means that your film will be less sensitive to light but will produce sharper images. Sometimes it’s better to just use more light and work with a lower ASA stock, sometimes it isn’t. It’s all personal preference, but good to learn, eh. Alongside having a fixed ASA, film stock also has a fixed colour balance. It’s either tungsten balanced, or daylight balanced. That means that the film is produced to interpret either 3200k or 5600k as white. If you use daylight film in a tungsten room, it’ll look really warm and if you use tungsten film outdoors it’ll look really cold. There are times when this can be used for effect, but it’s good to at least know the rules before you break them. The new stuff At the time of writing, there aren’t too many companies manufacturing Super 8 film. The place that I purchase mine from (www.on8mil.com) sell two brands: Kahl and Kodak. Kahl make quite a few flavours of film, none of which I have any experience in using, so try them at your own peril. Kodak, on the other hand, make only 5 stocks. They are their latest generation of stocks—the VISION3 stuff. There’s plenty of resources online to compare them, and they perform as predicted every time, providing you store them well. They also produce the same VISION 3 stocks in 16mm and 35mm (and even IMAX), so you can shoot on the same stock as Hoyte Van Hoytema or Bob Richardson if you like. The old stuff The risks associated with buying these are two-fold: You don’t definitively know how the film has been stored since purchase, which is a problem because humidity, pressure and temperature (not to mention magnetism and light exposure) all have an impact on the film itself. Each roll, even if it’s the same stock, will vary greatly depending on how it’s been kept. This means that if you wanted to shoot two rolls for a job, you can’t be certain that they’ll both come out the same. If you are going to go down this route, there’s some good advice out there in terms of questions to ask the previous owner about how they’ve kept the film. Martin Baumgartner, an industry rep and user of Cinematography.com, says the following: “Film that is to be used within 1 to 3 months can be stored at room temperature, but KODAK and other manufacturers recommend storage at 55F or less for film being stored 1 to 6 months. Longer than 6 months, it should be refridgerated, and longer than a year, it should be stored frozen. Get good quality ziplock freezer bags, evacuate as much air out of the bags as you can before you zip them up. Also, if you can do this in an environment at less than 60 Relative Humidity, that will help. Off you go! Do your best to calculate how much film you’ll need to shoot your project before you start, and stick to it. Ration it out accordingly. If you’re shooting a documentary, you’re likely to need a LOT more film than if you’re shooting a short film or lifestyle commercial. All I can really say about shooting on Super 8, or any film, is that it isn’t limitless and it can’t be overwritten. Be frugal, and keep an eye on the reel counter. Similarly, try to keep an eye on your exposure. If you underexpose, however—even by a stop—you’ve bought a one-way ticket to board the grain train and there ain’t no coming back. Development and processing First thing’s first, you need to get your spent cartridge out of the camera and post it off to a developer. As I mentioned above, I use on8mi.com, who offer a variety of tiered pricing options dependent on turn-around speed and your development preferences. I’m fairly sure that they send it off to Germany to be chemically developed, and then do the digitisation themselves. Either way, they do a great job. Push or pull? When you send your film off, you can attach a note to the developer informing them of how you’d like your film treated. This works well if you’ve shot the whole reel purposefully under or overexposed by a stop, as they’ll be able to perform this correction chemically. I don’t think this can be done on a shot-by-shot or scene-by-scene basis, so make sure you’re happy for your whole reel to be affected. Resolution Once your film’s been chemically developed, it has to be processed. This involves scanning the developed reel and digitising it. There are more decisions to be made at this stage. First of all, you need to decide which resolution you’d like to have your film scanned at. Personally, I don’t think there’s much use in scanning Super 8 film above 2.6k, as each frame is only 8mm in size, so you don’t get too much additional benefit by having a 4k scan unless you plan on really punching in, which would increase the size of your grain. On8mil.com offer a 1.5, 2.6 and 4K scan of Super 8. Frame Rate If you shot at 18fps and you have your film scanned at 25fps, it will play back fast. If you shot at 50fps and have it scanned at 25fps, it will play back slow. If you match your scanned frame rate to the frame rate you shot at, it’ll playback in real time. The choice is yours. That’s what I’d describe as “full hipster”. From there, you just choose what you want to lose, all the way down to a cropped scan, which is just the exposed frame itself. Colour Correction Lastly, you get the choice of whether or not you’d like the bloke at On8mil to give your film some colour correction and exposure correction before sending it back to you.